In Russia there is no such garden where carrots are not planted. Some root vegetables succeed in glory, juicy, smooth, sweet. Others look painful, crooked curves, bitter, cracked. What is the secret of this orange beauty? Maybe in the selection of seeds? Hardly.
How to grow carrots in the open field, so she thanked the high yield? It turns out that she is still that naughty girl. And we need a special approach to it. Just from the category of "dancing with a tambourine" and "what else do you want?".
Soil for carrots
Carrot - the girl obstinate. Almost not on her, immediately turn up the nose. In other words, it begins to grow at random. Tails produces a lot, but there's no point. That is, the soil should be as loose as possible. That's right to foot sank. Therefore, the bed is prepared in advance in the fall.
They dig deep, one and a half bayonet. In order to grow carrots. Otherwise, it will start to twist and spin.
She also likes to eat, hearty and dense. But during growth, it is inconvenient to feed her. Top pouring is useless when it still reaches the root? Loosening the ground is also impossible, there is a risk of damaging small roots. What to do? Fertilize in advance.
In the autumn, add a well-matured humus, and more. Manure do not make. Only if he finally pereprelya, and then abstain. Sand poured, large, clean. Sawdust, shavings are not suitable. They strongly acidify the soil, and the carrot does not like this passion. It is better to lime fluff, flour dolomite, ash poured. Again, this is all - strictly before the digging in the winter.
Mineral fertilizers are added. Especially orange beauty respects potassium, phosphorus. But nitrogen does not like. Totally. Root crops turn out huge, but not sweet. Only for cattle feed and suitable.
And vice versa. If you plan to sow carrots in the winter, then the bed is prepared in advance, in spring or in the middle of summer.
Can I plant carrots before winter
So what? If the bed is well cultivated, then why not? Seeds begin to germinate at a soil temperature of + 5 ° C. Suddenly arrive at the site much later? In addition, the early carrot will not hurt anyone, especially on the table. Another plus: by the time the weeds start growing, the beauty will grow a beautiful fluffy scythe. Therefore, it does not threaten to be hammered.
Of course, such root crops are not suitable for long storage, they will have to lie for too long. But for early use - just right.
The principle of winter sowing is very simple. To do this, prepare the bed from the summer. Around October, the furrows are cut according to the usual pattern. And prepare dry soil in buckets. They are put in a cellar, cellar, barn. In short, where the earth does not freeze into a ball and remain loose.
At the onset of stable frosts, about -10 ° C, come to the garden. Almost the entire layer of snow is removed from it, leaving about 1-1.5 cm. Carrot seeds are spread onto the prepared furrows directly on the snow. Sprinkle with the soil prepared in buckets. And from above back throw the shot snow.
Everything. Now in the spring, as soon as the bed warms up to about + 6 ° C, the carrot will start to grow. In the middle lane is about mid-April. And the usual way is to start sowing only in the third decade.
Thus, winter planting allows you to get a harvest at least a month earlier.
Council Seeds must be completely dry! Wet will just kill with frost. Dry will calmly endure the most severe winter, there would be more snow.
How to plant a carrot in the spring
But not everyone is at risk of planting a carrot as described above. Most used to sow it in the old fashioned way, in the spring. Well, let's figure out how to do it right.
Seed preparation. Carrot has one feature. Her seeds are very high in essential oils. Such a protective shell. It protects the seeds from the outside from the effects of negative factors. But here's the catch. The same essential oil greatly complicates the germination of seeds. Noticed how long the carrot lasts?
To destroy this ether shell, gardeners use a variety of methods. Here are the most common:
- Seeds are placed in a linen bag, filled with hot, clean water. At about + 50 ° C for three hours. In this case, the water is changed to fresh during this time 4 times.
- Before planting, the seeds are mixed with wet sand and as if rubbed between the fingers. Strongly enough.
- Seeds are soaked for 12 hours, then the water is completely drained. Place them for 2 days in the fridge. So the essential oil evaporates faster.
- A linen sack with dry seeds is dropped in any pot with a flower. Keep it about 10 days. During this time, the soil will pull out most of the etheric envelope.
All these methods accelerate the germination of carrot seeds by about two times. That is, shoots will have to wait just a week instead of the usual two.
By the way, now on sale is full of coated seeds. Stuck comfortable. Large balls are convenient to sow. The shell contains the entire complex of minerals, so necessary for young shoots. Some are even saturated with growth stimulant. The only minus of such seeds is the presence of a large amount of moisture during germination. That is, the land should be damp. You will have to shed it well. And in hot weather, you need to water the furrows again before the first eyelets appear.
But it is possible to do with ordinary carrot seeds. In order to make it convenient to plant, gardeners invented many different ways. Check them each.
Paste. Cook the usual paste, medium thickness. Approximate quantity of the necessary seeds is poured into it and carefully stirred. Then just from a vessel with a thin spout shed furrow. Good for this purpose suitable kettle.
The disadvantage of the method is that it is necessary to get the hand to pour this mixture evenly along the entire length of the bed.
Sand. The seeds are mixed with clean, wet sand. The ratio is 1 to 1. And already this mixture is sown in the furrows, as they used to. So the seeds fall less often.
Minus method: the elderly no longer have a young finger sensitivity. Therefore, sand is easily confused with seeds. The uniformity of planting will still be broken.
Bubble. Any bubble wrap with screw cap. It makes an awl in it, the size of a little more than carrot seeds. Pour raw materials inside. Above the furrow make a sharp movement of the hand - the seed through the hole flies.
Disadvantage: from the first time the seed may simply not fall into the hole. From the second time three pieces will fly out at once. Here also go, shake a bubble, how abnormal.
Paper. In their free time they take the cheapest toilet paper. Seeds are glued to it with the help of paste and toothpicks. Then, after drying, you just need to cut everything into strips. When planting they are laid in the furrows and sprinkled with earth.
Minus: a lesson for the very patient, for tedious, long and breaking the eyes.
Use any suitable for you. Perhaps you turn disadvantages into advantages. Just use the classic principle: they shed a groove very much before laying the seeds. And sprinkle with loose, necessarily dry soil.
This will allow not to form a thick earthen crust on the surface, and the seedlings will freely break out.
Caring for carrots
She is, of course, a damsel. But she needs care a little different than a young girl.
Loosening. After each watering or rain, it is necessary to loosen the top layer of soil to a depth of no more than 2-2.5 cm. It is necessary to break the crust so that it does not compact the ground around the root crop. Deeper crawl is not worth it. But between the furrows, you can frolic with a chopper or flat-cut from the heart. Thus, the pressure of the soil on the root crop will decrease and the small feeding roots will remain intact.
Watering. Carrot likes to drink. A lot, rarely, but very regularly. Make a rule for yourself: once a week, on the same day, spill the soil thoroughly in the plantings. Wet need to a depth of at least 20-22 cm.
If you water often and gradually, the root crop will be short and shaggy. And the first mighty summer rain will cause the strongest cracking of fruits.
If you don’t water it at all (do not grow it yourself), then there is a high risk to get woody and bitter dried flowers instead of harvest. Not at all the carrots are not similar.
Feeding. During the whole growing season, fertilizers are not applied! All dressings must be added to the soil in advance. If carrots will receive food from the outside during growth, it will grow big. But the taste will not have. This is especially true for mineral fertilizers with a high nitrogen content.
Pests. Besides people, carrot loves to eat carrot fly. She especially respects young landings immediately after pulling out. Remember how far the fragrance of the tops is carried at the end of the procedure.
To avoid such trouble, some sources recommend alternating grooves with onion plantings. The effect will undoubtedly be. But very weak.
It is better to act like this:
- the day before the alleged pulling out prepare an infusion of onion peel
- per day x pour liquid into the spray
- pull the groove and quickly spray planting infusion
Pour specifically not worth it. Onion infusion is very smelly, it needs quite a bit. Just to kill the carrot flavor. By the way, you can periodically spray carrots throughout the growing season. This is 100% secure landing from carrot flies. The remaining pests are quite indifferent to the orange beauty.
When to start digging carrots? In principle, all information in great detail is always indicated on the seed packaging. Focus on it and just can not go wrong.
What to do if the seeds were given or you grew them yourself? Of course, you can pull out one root and look at it for a long time. Is it time or else let him sit in the ground? How to guess?
It turns out that everything is simple. Carrots begin to massively clean when they turn yellow and 4-6 lower leaves start to dry. If they are still green and hearty, let them grow for now.
By the way, try not to dig a part of the bed. Cut the foliage with scissors or shears to the very root. But do not touch the pulp. Approximately in 2 days, when the top of the root crop dries, sprinkle it with the soil with the head. And forget until spring.
As soon as the snow melts, feel free to take the pitchfork and dig up your experiment. Carrots in the cellar by this point is already showing clear signs of wilting. And the one you left on the garden will be the freshest, juicy and tasty.
Council Just do not forget to properly tamp the soil around the left root vegetables. Straight legs and stubborn. Mice are also very fond of such carrots. And the trampled earth will prevent them from tasting the sweet pulp.
- When planting too often, be sure to carve the carrots immediately after watering. So root crops will be pulled out from the soil without damage by a number of seated girlfriends.
- Store the carrot in a well-ventilated area. Thus you will avoid the manifestations of many putrefactive and fungal diseases. You are not sure about the complete sterility of your soil?
- When digging up root crops, do not pull them by the tops. A long piece can break off and remain in the soil. Use forks. They easily enter the densest soil and the risk of damaging the fruit is minimal.
- Plant varieties of different ripening terms. Early maturing use for cooking daily meals. This carrot is bad in the cellar. Mid-season ripen just in time for the workpiece for the winter. Late-ripening varieties are best kept. They ripen just at the time of laying in the cellars and cellars.
- Carrots are not planted seedlings. Experiments conducted by some gardeners have shown: such roots always grow curves and do not gain their characteristic mass. At the same time, precious time is spent on transplantation. And it is not enough in the spring.
How to grow carrots in the open field? In fact, not so easy. Size is not the main advantage of an orange beauty. It is much more important to get juicy and sweet root crops with a minimum of costs. Care for carrots well, and even for it will not rust.